A Month in Orléans: The Trip We Didn’t Plan but Loved
Why Orléans in October? Honestly, it started with a too-good-to-pass-up Airbnb deal right on the banks of the Loire River. The apartment turned out to be one of the worst we stayed in—but the view? Absolutely unforgettable
The Loire River in Orléans.
Où est le marché svp?
Once we settled into Orléans, our first mission was obvious: find the local farmers’ market. Luckily, it unfolded every Saturday right along the banks of the Loire River.
Shopping the market for the best produce!
It quickly became part of our weekly rhythm—wandering past stalls overflowing with the freshest produce, cheeses, and breads. I’m still amazed at the quality of food in France compared to the prices. It’s not just good—it’s consistently good.
With autumn settling in, the market was full of squash, root vegetables, and deep earthy colors. Back at the apartment, it felt like the perfect excuse to make something warm: a simple butternut squash soup, blended until silky and finished with coconut milk and fresh dill.
But the market wasn’t just about food. Set against the wide, slow-moving Loire River, it came with its own kind of quiet spectacle. Egrets, swans, herons, terns, and geese gathered along the sandy banks in the middle of the river, fishing and drifting with the current.
Fishermen on the Loire
Shopping for fresh produce along the Loire river was breathtaking. Egrets, Swans, Herons, Terns, Geese and Cormorants were all fishing and congregating on the sandy estuary in the middle of the river.
Loire River Estuary
I’ve always loved cormorants. Unlike most birds, they move effortlessly between air and water, diving beneath the surface to hunt. Their numbers were once in decline, but thanks to conservation efforts, they’ve been steadily returning. Watching them each day became one of those small, unexpected joys.
And then, in the evenings, the Loire River changed completely… the water glowed from within as the sun bathed everything in gold!
The setting sun on the Loire is absolutely magical!
So far, Orléans was turning into one of my favorite cities!
Once our kitchen was initially stocked with fresh vegetables, terrines of goose paté, and some good bottles of wine, we spent a few hours a day walking the city.
We began our self-guided tour at the elegant Hôtel Groslot—pronounced “grow-low”—a Renaissance gem tucked just steps from the cathedral.
Built in the 16th century by Jacques Groslot, chancellor to Marguerite of Navarre, the home reflects both wealth and political proximity. Marguerite, grandmother of the future King Henry IV—who himself would become grandfather to Louis XIV—places the Groslot family right at the heart of French royal lineage.
A Protestant Family in a Catholic Kingdom.
That proximity, however, came at a cost. As Protestants in a firmly Catholic monarchy, the Groslots found themselves on precarious ground. During the turbulent years of the French Wars of Religion, the house was seized by Catherine de’ Medici and her son Francis II—who, notably, died within these very walls—before passing briefly to Charles IX.
Though the family eventually reclaimed their home, its fate had shifted. In 1738, it was sold to the city for 28,480 gold livres—a staggering sum when you consider that a skilled artisan of the time might earn only around 30 livres a year.
Jean, Still Watching
Standing proudly just outside is a statue of Joan of Arc, forever linked to Orléans as the city she helped liberate in 1429. Look closely at the stone and you’ll notice something unexpected—pockmarks from bullets, scars left behind during the city’s liberation in 1944 in World War II.
Joan of Arc statue in front of the Hotel Groslot. Look closely for the bullet holes from the liberation of Orléans in 1944, during WWII.
The statue of Joan of Arc and Hotel Groslot. Engraving made by Isidore Laurent Deroy around the time it was sold to the city. Engraving courtesy of Wikipedia.
No expense was spared in the construction and furnishing of the Hotel Groslot, the intricately carved ceilings and arched doorways, the wooden carvings surrounding the fireplace, and beautiful pieces of artwork filll the rooms.
The Hôtel Groslot feels less like a museum and more like a preserved moment in time. Intricately carved wooden ceilings stretch overhead, doorways curve into elegant arches, and fireplaces are framed by detailed woodwork that draws your eye again and again.
Photos below from inside the Hotel Groslot: the street through the leaded and colored panes of glass in a front window, a tapestry, and a closeup of the fireplace in the meeting room.
The death of Francis II in the Hotel Groslot was immortalized in this painting by Pierre DuPuis.
Wandering from room to room, it’s easy to lose track of time—until, eventually, nature intervenes.
With nature calling, I adjourned to find the ladies room when I noticed out the back window a lovely little courtyard and what looked like ruins
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So we headed out to investigate…
…and found the remains of a 15th century chapel.
Translation: « Constructed by Pilgrims of the 15th century near the ancient bridge at the corner of rue St. Jacque and of the Hotels st Catherine and leaning against the walls of the chatelet. Demolished for the establishment of the covered market. The facade and other pieces were rebuilt here in 1883. »
Below are closeups of the beautiful stonework on the facade of the Chapel.
We continued to wander around the town, looking at all the various buildings and admiring the architecture and the city…
…until eventually we reached the Cathedral Saint-Croix that dominates the town.
This Gothic Cathedral is stunning to behold. Originally built from 1278 to 1329, it suffered some damage during the wars of religion (remember the Groslot’s?), and was rebuilt between 1600 and 1800.
But the really exciting part of the Cathedral is undoubtedly the ten stained glass windows -created in the mid 1800’s- that represent how Joan of Arc liberated Orléans from the hands of the dastardly English!
So now let’s get to the real soul of Orléans, the story of Joan of Arc, or «Jean d’Arc».
The story of Jean D’Arc.
It’s important to have a little historical background to understand what’s happening in each window. For nearly a hundred years, there had been contention over who was the true King of France. It was called the hundred years war (1337-1453) and was continually being fought between the English and the French over who was the hereditary King of France.
This constant fighting over succession was caused in part by the practice of constant inter-marriage between the royal families of Europe and England. So every death of a King or Queen without a clear successor became the source of a power struggle; How to determine WHO was the next person to be crowned?
And no one wanted their new monarch to be a foreigner! (outraged gasps)
So after five generations of fighting, (excacerbated by the Black Death), the fighting began again in earnest during the early part of the 1400’s. At that time, Henry V was King of England, and Charles VI was King of France.
Charles VI (pictured being crowned) had been plagued all his life by mental instability, creating a weak government. (Read an interesting modern explanation of his possible illness here) Additionally, at the time of his reign, there was also a civil war happening in France.
In 1420, after a brutal defeat by the English and more lost French territory, Charles VI signed the « Treaty of Troyes » which would give the throne of France to the successors of the English King Henry V, instead of to his own successors. He was even required to disinherit his son, Charles VII.
After the « Treaty of Troyes », Henry V was also married to Charles VI’s daughter, Catherine of Valois, (marriage pictured). But Henry died only two years later of an unknown illness, (according to this source, it was dysentry, a severe bacterial infection).
This left his infant son Henry VI as the would-be successor to the throne of France. Suddenly, Charles VI died only two months after Henry V, leaving behind his disinherited son, Charles VII (the Dauphin). If not for the Treaty of Troyes naming the English two-year old infant the successor to the French throne, Charles VI would have naturally been crowned. Since Charles had already been rallying the French to his cause, he called on them to fight the occupying English forces and regain his right to the French throne.
Here is where Joan enters the story. In the garden of her home in the little village of Domrémy, she was visited by an angel telling her to help the French Dauphin, Charles VII. And so in 1428, off she went.
She was only 14 at the time and telling her parents that she had a vision telling her to go to the King of France probably would not have gone over well. Her own testimony is that she told her parents she was visiting a cousin!
After many struggles and the help of a Knight who believed in her vision, she finally arrived at the court of the Dauphin, Charles VIl.
Despite what is commonly thought, she was merely a curiosity to him at this point. But he likely saw her usefulness as a symbolic figure that he could use to rally the tired and demoralized French troops.
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And now for the stained glass…
The stained glass in the Cathedral Saint-Croix chronicles the major events of her life as the savior of France. Below each window is a description which I have included in bold, with a translation.
The story of Joan of Arc begins in this first stained glass window. It depicts Angels from Heaven speaking to her as she tends the sheep. She later identified them as St. Michael, St. Margaret, and St. Catherine.
WINDOW ONE
«Comment Jehaunne la Pucelle entendist ses voix célestes et leurs commandements.»
-How the virgin Joan heard the celestial voices and their commandments.
One of the first to be converted to her cause was Jean de Metz, who seeing her continue to be rebuffed by Richard de Baudincourt, asked her why. I’ve included her reply as a photograph (above and left) of the page from Joan of Arc : The Legend And The Reality by Frances Gies.
Jean de Metz, Knight of Baudricourt says Joan was finally sent to the king after much trouble on her part and despite the hesitance of Baudricourt. He recollects an escort of six; Jean de Metz, Bertrand de Poulengy, two servants of Bertand, a soldier “Richard the Archer”, and a royal messenger “Colet de Vienne”.
WINDOW TWO
« Et fust en raison de sa grand pieté du royaume de France trouver le Roy. »
– Because of her great piety to the kingdom of France, she left to find the King.
In this second stained glass window, we see the young Joan leaving to see the king. I believe the two men in armor depicted in this window are Jean de Metz and Bertrand de Poulengy, knights of Richard de Baudincourt.
WINDOW THREE
«Et luy fut présentée a la Roy disant, Gentil Roy Dieu m’envoye vous secourir.»
– And she presented herself to the king saying, ‘Benevolent King, God has sent me to help you »
In the third window, we see Joan kneeling at the feet of the Dauphin, Charles VII. Above her is an angel overlooking the scene.
The King was not initially convinced by her, but apparently she revealed a private message to him that had been vouchsafed to her by the angels. After sending her to Poitiers to be interviewed by theologians who vetted her, he had armor and a standard made for her.
WINDOW FOUR
« Comment Jehaunne fit son entrée à Orleans Yssant son entendant disant Dieu m’a envoyée secourir la bonne ville »
– ‘How Joan made her entrance into Orléans saying, « God has sent me to save this good town’
In window number four, we see Joan making her triumphant entry into Orléans. In reality, before this point, Joan had proved her acumen to the King and his army commanders with a successful attack a few days earlier that she organized and led. It was only after this that she finally made her way through the English troops surrounding Orléans.
WINDOW FIVE
« Et lors combattit à l’assaut des Tourelles disant: Tout est vostre (nostre?) et y entrez. »
– ‘And fought in the battle of Tourelles saying, « This is yours, and you will enter’ (presumably she was speaking to the troops? I wasn’t sure of the writing due to the illegible calligraphy)
In the fifth window – the 7th of May, 1429- we see Joan at the battle of Tourelles. Joan was actually wounded here by an arrow that struck her between the neck and shoulder, and was taken to a field not far away. However, after some prayers, she apparently made a miraculous recovery and returned to the field of battle. The French troops, seeing her standard back on the field, were galvanized with renewed fervor and won the battle, retaking the town.
WINDOW SIX
« Et le VIII jour de may entra moult devotement l’Eglise Sainte Croix pour y mercier Dieu »
– ‘And on the 8th day of May she entered the church of Saint Croix with much devotion to thank God.’
The sixth window depicts Joan the day after the battle of Tourelles. She returns to Orléans and enters the Cathedral Saint-Croix to give thanks to God.
WINDOW SEVEN
« Et s’en fut au sacre du Roy aveques son étendart qui ayant ete a la peine c’estait Raison qu’il fust à la honneur »
This was a doozy to translate! But here is my attempt – ‘ And went to the coronation of the King, and was at great pain to assure him that it was his right to be crowned with that honor’
In the seventh window, the Dauphin is being crowned Charles VII in Reims. It was Joan who insisted that he go to Reims and assured him that he was the rightful king. She was adamant that he be crowned and actually accompanied him to Reims as assurance.
WINDOW EIGHT
« Comment il advinct que lehaune fust mise à mal par trahison aux makns des Anglois »
– ‘How it came about that Joan was undermined by treason and fell into the hands of the English’
In the eight window, we see Joan set upon by the enemy. There are many theories and a lot of confusion, but the prevailing theory is that Joan was betrayed by the King. The belief is that he was ready to sign a peace treaty with the English, but she was adamant that they continue fighting to retake the entire country back from the English. During the battle of Compeigne in May of 1430, she was left alone somehow, and captured by the French Burgundians, who were allies of the English. They then ransomed her to the English for about 10,000 livres.
WINDOW NINE
« Douce en prison elle souffrit moult violence »
– ‘Gentle in prison she suffered much violence’
In the ninth window we see Joan in prison. She was subjected to inquisition to prove that she was a heretic in an attempt to undermine the legitimacy of the coronation of Charles VII and demoralize the French. Joan was not quite 18 years old, but she was so perfectly composed, and answered their questions so calmly and cleverly, that they could not succeed in tricking her into incriminating herself. Nor did she lose her virginity in prison, despite being subjected to harsh treatment and rape attempts. She stated that she would be judged only by God.
« Besides, they might be tempted to varnish their infamy by a reason of state, according to the notions of the day — by depriving her of her virginity, they would undoubtedly destroy that secret power of which the English entertained such great dread, who, perhaps, might recover their courage when they knew that, after all, she was but a woman. According to her confessor, to whom she divulged the fact, an Englishman, not a common soldier, but a gentleman, a lord — patriotically devoted himself to this execution, bravely undertook to violate a girl laden with fetters, and, being unable to effect his wishes, rained blows upon her. »
« Et fust par l’Anglois perfide brulée. Ses voix uni disant ne te chaille de ton martyre tu t’en viendrais au royaume de paradis. »
– ‘ And she was burned at the stake by the perfidious English. Their [the angels] voices united saying don’t despair of your martyrdom you will come to the kingdom of heaven.
In the final window, we see Joan being burned at the stake, May 30, 1431, not yet 19 years old. If you read the account of her ‘trial’ you will see that it was politically orchestrated to reach this point. In no way did Joan ever recant, was proved lying, or disobey the church. In this window you see the three angels hovering over her at the end of her life.
Seeing these stained glass representations of the life of Joan of Arc and learning of her story is incredibly moving and inspiring. I vowed to take the photos and post them here so that my family and friends could enjoy them as well!
After enjoying the Cathedral Saint-Croix, we were quite hungry, so we headed to a lovely restaurant where we had dinner and our first experience of a « Un Café Gourmand ».
“Un Café Gourmand » is an espresso plated with various treats, differing from restaurant to restaurant. This version was wonderful, with a tiny shot glass of lemon cream topped with raspberry coulis, one with vanilla custard, a tiny scoop of vanilla bean ice cream, a miniature Cannelle, and a petit lava cake. A fun and decadent treat!
Omar having a much-deserved and slightly ironic ‘St. Omer’ beer before dinner.
We‘ve noticed that most of the historic buildings in France are owned by the government. But as we experienced in Angers, they are well maintained and open for the public to view free on European Heritage Day!
One of my other favorite things to see everwere we travel are the different Merry-Go-Rounds. Here is the one in Orléans in the Place du Martroi where we ended the day. There is also a nice weekly market here with all kinds of treats to enjoy.
All in all, we liked Orléans very much. There are plenty of markets with fresh food, large grocery stores and the train station is not far from the river. The influx of immigrants has given the city a great variety of restaurants and shopping that a less cultured city would not have available.
We hope to be back soon to enjoy not only the festival of Joan of Arc, but the yearly Loire Festival centered on the river. It features regattas, boat trains, jousts, rowing races, nautical demonstrations etc, as well as the ubiquitous stalls selling food, drink, and merchandise. I for one cannot wait to return!
